"Art and Jewelry: A Brief History of Their Role in Art
Jewelry and metals have been precious and enduring decorative objects for centuries, serving as talismans and amulets. Over time, they have acquired symbolism attributed to astrological events, exotic animals, and different states of consciousness. In some Eastern and Western religions, gemstones and jewelry have represented various deities and figures of power.
In the ancient art of pre-Hispanic cultures, the use of jewelry in different parts of the body indicated belonging to a particular social class. Similarly, in ancient Egypt and cultures of the fertile crescent, they were part of the tributes and regalia of pharaohs and monarchs. In Eastern cultures, for example, ancient China, jade represented perfection and the highest authority because its color was associated with the heavens, and it was believed to possess magical properties capable of achieving immortality.
In the art of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, the use and possession of jewelry were reserved exclusively for divinity and its representation on earth, which, for Christianity, was the Pope or the monarchs. However, thanks to European pictorial art from the 15th century onwards, we can gain insight into what the use of jewelry meant for the nobility, especially for the maidens and courtly women featured in these paintings.
Baroque paintings were characterized by portraying, in addition to sacred scenes, royalty adorned with necklaces and earrings. Nevertheless, painters like Caravaggio, Rembrandt, or Vermeer dared to delve a bit deeper into the intimacy of these individuals, allowing their viewers to discover profound stories in what could be a simple portrait at first glance. In the painting by the Dutch artist Johannes Vermeer, "Girl with a Pearl Earring," the pearl, despite its size, is the focal point of the painting because, associated with the moon, it was attributed with characteristics of femininity and esotericism.
Thus, we can associate the representation of femininity with the use of jewelry and what their colors and materials can tell us about the women who wear them. Although, from the Romantic era and the avant-garde movements, the representation of women has transcended from sumptuous palaces and opulent dresses to scenes that are more popular and closer to everyday life, jewelry has become a subject of artistic creation in the world of fashion.
Rings, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings have become small works of art in their own right, and their creators have adapted to the diversity of people in the world, making them more accessible to anyone who, like the 'Girl with a Pearl Earring,' wants to tell their story through their jewelry."
Ana Karina Romero Ulloa
Artista, ilustradora y narradora colombiana. Teatrera y aprendiz de charango
Instagram: @el_hermoseador